Kempten, Allgäu, in Bavaria, Germany(photo by Wilhelm Rosenkrantz 2008)
Haley this article was inspired by your synchronistic invitation to attend the Oktoberfest. 😊
A Magical Time in Munich & Bavaria during Oktoberfest
I was born in the city of Kempten, in the region of Bavaria, Germany. This is the place known as Allgäu; famous for cheese, cows wearing bells and beautiful red geraniums adorning large wooden balconies along the facade of chalets on rolling emerald hills. However my heart belongs to Augsburg, where I was raised and felt very connected to my Oma and Godmother Anna. For me it is the most beautiful city in Bavaria and all of Germany. Her history is at least 2002 years old and well known for "die Puppenkiste” (marionette theater), “die Fuggerei” . She is sometimes called “ “Datschiburg” as a loving reminder of the "Zwetschgendatschi Kuchen” (a delicious plum tart). As a historic location Augsburg is part of the Romantic Road and possesses one of the most beautiful streets in Europe “Maximillianstrasse”, decorated with cobbled stones and fountains. As the Venice of Germany there are canals dotted throughout, sometimes in intimate neighborhoods
Augsburg is 80 km ( 60 miles) northwest of Munich, about 1 1/2 hours by car or 45 minutes via the ICE speed train. A few days spent in this ancient Roman city one can simultaneously experience going back in time with a mélange of modern flair. Stay at the "Drei Mohren Hotel” (the 3 Moors) on Maximilianstrasse directly in the center of town. Have a leisurely buffet breakfast with all types of breads, fruit, pastries, juices, teas and coffee all included in the price, as in most European hotels. Travelers who are not vegan or vegetarians have various choices, since Germans eat a lot of meat in the form of cold cuts and sausages. Take an afternoon stroll through the downtown area among specialty shops, the “Weber Haus” mural, which over time has housed many shops including the designer Jill Sander. My mother enjoyed her first years in modeling as a teen in “Weber Haus”. “St. Ulrich and St. Afra Kirche” as well as the “Der Augsburger Dom” a cathedral are all perfectly positioned on this famous street, albeit at opposite ends. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at a Greek, Italian, Turkish or Bavarian bistro. There is a “Halle” an indoor venue displaying a myriad of hot and cold deli cuisine from Turkey, Greece and the Middle East. The year round Farmer’s market showcases fruits, vegetables, flowers and honey from around the world. Look for the sign “BIO” which is organic or responsibly farmed. Considering the stringent laws in Germany for food, beer and skincare in relation to labeling and production, I believe you can trust the signs. As you browse in the market create your own "Brotzeit", a Bavarian tradition of sliced tomatoes, pickles, cheeses, cold cuts, dark bread, mustard all nicely placed on a wooden board and usually enjoyed with a glass of beer, a refreshing "Radler Maß" ( lemonade with beer) or soft drink. I remember my Oma still 70 years young eating her daily "Brotzeit" in Los Angeles. Occasional she had a craving for "Golden Bird Chicken".
The phrase “Kaffee Klatsch” is the gathering of family, friends and neighbors for late afternoon of catching up on news, family history & gossip at someone’s home, perhaps on the balcony or in their own garden. “Die Torte”, a tart is usually homemade or bought in a local bakery known for their scrumptious desserts. Many European desserts are not as sugary sweet as those in America. “Gluten-frei” is perhaps more popular and available than several years ago, just inquire. I love the traditional way of serving this late afternoon meal on traditional china from “Meissen” or “Vilroy und Boch” or even your own “Oma” or “Opa’s”, which has been passed down through generations as a wedding gift. There are matching dessert plates, as well as dessert forks and the taller “Kaffee Kanne”, perhaps kept warm by a a tea light.
I love having “Kaffee und Kuchen” at “Cafe Dichtl” owned by the same Dichtl family for decades on Bahnhofstrasse or the one on Maximilianstrasse created by their daughter. Further down “am Rathausplatz” is “Cafe Eberle” directly across from the city hall and“Perlachtturm”. On warm days even into October, outdoor seating invites everyone to have a cool drink and a selection of meals. As you enjoy your meal you can hear the bell tolls from the “Perlach Tower”. Do they toll for you? At the side entrance is the small St. Peter chapel funded by the Fugger family with a painting of “Maria the “Knotenlöserin”. If you believe, you can ask her to untie all of the knots in your life, perhaps similar to Beloved Ganesha in the Hindu religion to remove obstacles. The last time I visited St. Peter’s, I stood before her and I had a long mental list of what I felt were the knots in my life. I think back and wonder if she said “ my Beloved Child of GOD, you are so loved but you are wearing me out”. As a 4 year old I celebrated my 4th birthday in the “Ratskeller”, a subterranean bistro in the city hall. On the upper floor is “ Der Goldener Saal” or Golden Hall, a ceremonial room filled with ceiling paintings, murals and golden wall decorations. The historically famous Fugger family who are similar to the Medici’s of Florence, Italy, were a monetarily very affluent family and contributed much to Augsburg. However Jakob Fugger opposed Martin Luther and his passion for demanding the Reformation.
As in many European cities there are a variety of specialty shops for food, fashion, skin care, perfumes, stationery, linens and luxury items. Take some time after a formal tour to peruse the beautiful stores often owned by families. Make notes of places and products and before you leave that city return to purchase your unique gifts. The Swiss founded "Hanro" has amazing lingerie made from fine cotton and the prices are less expensive than in Switzerland. Th very clean skin care lines of Primavera, Weleda & Dr. Hauschka are sold in the “DM Drogerie” or “Müller Drogerie”drug stores. In America these aromatic products considered high end and their cost reflects this in stores such as Whole Foods, Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy and New Seasons. Á propos shopping smart: smaller cities outside of Munich will usually have better prices including hotels. Ask for the VAT form in each business so you can submit these at the airport on your return flight. Pack all of your purchases in one bag or suitcase, upon your departure you will either receive the 19% tax in cash, check or sent to your address. Paying cash is appreciated and often rewarded in the smaller businesses with a lower negotiable price.
The last time I suggested a U.S. Traveler to visit my hometown was in 2004. She wasn't too excited about going to Germany alone, especially during the Christmas holiday. However, once we had our tête-à-tête she became a wide-eyed child. All along her journey she had magical encounters. Upon arriving in Augsburg, she yearned for more time. When I received a call at 7 a.m. pacific time, I could hear the bell tower ringing in the background from "Perlachturm". It was truly a wake-up call and we both laughed a lot, a wonderful memory in connecting to my childhood.
München (Munich)
München, the capital of Bavaria is an absolutely beautiful and historic big city with the feel of a small town. In comparison to Frankfurt and Stuttgart the rebuilding after WWII focused more on the architecture of the 18th and 19th centuries rather than the modern design. Some of the buildings are enormous with that old world appearance, light friendly hues and feel. It is common to rent a room in a large apartment with tall ceilings, lots of windows and situated on elegant streets like "Prinzregentenstrasse." Each time I came upon a different neighborhood it felt like a hidden discovery of my own. The amazing and efficient transportation system facilitates travel through this magnificent urban city with a country feel. There are buses, streetcars, underground subways and trains to Paris, Vienna, Berlin via the ICE (Intercity express) or to more local trains to German cities such as Starnberg, Augsburg and Passau. The local transportation runs on an honor system and the traveler can easily buy a day, week, month or year pass. The subway operates until about 2 or 3 in the morning and begin again around 4:30 a.m. I noticed that there was always a perfect overlap of all modes of travel, so if you missed the street car then hop on a bus or faster yet the subway. Known by many Americans as one of the cleanest countries, this is true for the subways as well.
There is much to keep you enticed during all four seasons. The “ Der Englisher Garten” is a enormous verdant park for everyone with the Isar river flowing through it. Take a stroll and stop at the winter garden restaurant for a bite to eat. During the warmer months a “Bier Garten” near the “Chinesische Turm” are a small souvenir of the larger Oktoberfest. Museums are positioned throughout München from scientific to modern design to collections of the Old Master paintings. Numerous cafés are dotted everywhere each with their own special ambience. On Sundays it is a German tradition to stroll the country side or parks, even in the snow laden streets of winter and have your “Kaffee und Kuchen” at a traditional Café such as "Café Wimmer." This is one of my favorites, a small chain serving aromatic coffee called "Kaffee Krem" with each cup individually ground and brewed leaving a light colored foam on top, resembling cream. I dunk my slice of marble cake as my Oma used to do and I AM in heaven. Café am Dom in "Marienplatz" or Café Kreutzkamm near Maximillianstrasse are traditional German coffee houses. This is also the area which is similar to Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. The shops along here are German designers Etienne Aigner, Escada, their offspring Laurèl along with other European fashion icons Armani and Chanel. Some of my favorite boutiques are "Krines" with endless lingerie drawers ranging from white to black and swimwear. "Theresa" boutique is filled soft cashmere sweaters, slacks, coats & shoes. "Furla" is known for very colorful handbags. Stores in the “Fünf Höfe” a chic intimate indoor mall. “Loden Frey" is a very upscale department store which highlights some of the most exquisite “Trachten Mode”, traditional Bavarian costumes. Their variety includes evening as well as daytime fashions seen throughout Bavaria.
A couple of blocks away is the 5 Star "Bäyrischer Hof" hotel and in the immediate opposite direction on Maximilianstrasse is the “ Vier Jahreszeiten Hotel” (Four Seasons). I love the energy in the latter perhaps because for me it is a block from this very magical corner surrounded by the National Opera and across from my favorite restaurant “Spatenhaus”. In the evening the lights from the Opera House are dimly lit and their reflection onto the cobble stones of the square increase the vibrational frequency. Every city has a corner, a street or a neighborhood which feels like magic. In San Francisco it is the corner of Grant & Bush with the Café de la Presse and the "Notre Dame des Victoires". In Portland it is the corner of NW Couch and 11th with Sur La Table, Peet's Coffee and Anthropologie. The area of Washington Park with the picnic tables I call the Magical Kingdom protected by tall emerald trees with a natural open rooftop of blue skies and heavenly solar energy. The "Spatenhaus" has the best Bavarian cuisine and my favorites; “Kässpatzen mit Zwiebeln” ( dumplings from a simple dough with Swiss cheese and topped with finely roasted onions), “Kartoffel Knödeln” with plain sauce. The latter are traditionally served with roasted pork but since becoming a vegetarian this is no longer my cup of tea. The gift of this establishment it that a young lady can be seated at a table made for 6 and other guests attending the opera or just coming in for a scrumptious meal, encourages synchronistic meetings with very interesting people. This happened to me twice.
Near "Marienplatz" with the famous “Glockenspiel” is the department store “Ludwig Beck” which dates back to the 19th century whereby they provided the Bavarian royal families such as Ludwig I and II with much of their daily necessities and desires. They have an attractive “Hautnah” department focusing on fragrances and international skin care products. "Marienplatz" is almost at the end of the “Fussgängerzone” (Pedestrian zone which is aligned with a variety of stores and also the famous “Frauenkirche” the cathedral with two well-known onion domes. Bavaria is primarily a catholic region and thus there are truly a myriad of religious edifices from very quaint and dimly lit to very large cathedrals with tall windows and Divine Angelic murals. The two which come to mind are “die Asam Kirche” or“St. Johann Nepomuk” ironically this was my Opa’s name and “die Dreiheilige Kirche” next to the “Viktuelenmarkt”. Sitting in a church is a perfect places to sit during the heat of a summer’s afternoon since the cool marble floors and the quietude seems to lessen any burdens you may feel and bring clarity to challenging times regardless of your beliefs. In the midst of winter there is warmth from the heaters and the numerous lit candles asking for a miracle. “Viktuelenmarkt” is a large open gourmet market offering international food & products some in native baskets everything from flowers, fruit, spices, honey, olives, lavender to German specialties. An ideal location for vegans, vegetarians and those still eating meat and fish. Schwabing is an expensive bohemian district of München. There are many boutiques, bistros and shops each with their own specialties. One of the hallmarks of European cities are the variety of businesses with their own delicacies: bread, pastries, dairy, poultry and seafood. My favorite "Café Wimmer" is here at "Kurfürstenplatz" or on "Leopoldstrasse." The Italian Cafés throughout the city are open during the spring and summer months serving coffees, tea, small sandwiches and of course delicious hazelnut gelato. As the autumn leaves fall these small spaces turn into the holiday "Nürnberger Lebkuchen" shops. Tins of all shapes and sizes with embellished art are sold for the forthcoming Christmas celebrations, so being at Oktoberfest has other benefits. Germany is also known for exquisite bedding, linen, luggage, stationary and art supplies
Oktoberfest
This is the largest “Volksfest” or people’s festival in the world lasting 16 days, beginning the third Friday of September with a traditional parade. It is the massive amounts of beer which is enjoyed in typical German “Steins” in clear glass, which has made this celebration famous for international travelers. The food is some of the best in Bavaria, because their is a conscientious competition between the owners of the different breweries and their enormous tents. They are open each day from 10 a.m. until 10:30 pm, while the fairgrounds with rides and stalls selling food and souvenirs are open until midnight. Each tent has its own creative design and theme many packed to capacity by 11 a.m. Their main intention is to eat, drink, sing and be merry. As a result the energy of this local celebration has shifted and some residents of Germany choose no longer to attend or are discerning when they attend. Tuesday afternoon used to be family day where everyone would come, sometimes bring their own food, sit outside and order the drinks. If you are a “newbie” consider the mid afternoon for a few hours or early evening. You can walk around the fairgrounds tasting the delicious roasted candied nuts, cotton candy, “Turkische Honig” or “Turkish honey” . This is a favorite childhood sweet made of pink and white shaven nougat. As a souvenir purchase the small and large gingerbread hearts embellished with loving words: “Du bist mein Herzl” You are my heart ;in the Bavarian language; “Ich hab’ dich lieb” I Am fond of you or “Ich liebe dich” I love you. Each year there is a artistic mug which you can purchase with or without a drink of apple cider or hot chocolate. Enjoy the time on the rides as if your are a child and definitely before eating a heavy meal and drinking alcohol. This beverage is a CNS ( central nervous depressant): it blunts your thinking & walking as well as being a diuretic. Contrary to popular belief it does not keep you warm because alcohol is a vasodilator and thus you loose body heat.
"Käfer" is similar to a boutique delicatessen on "Prinzregentenstrasse" and extraordinary rooms on the upper flowers resembling 19th century palace drawing rooms for dining. During these festive days the "Käfer" is a very sought after location, with a guest list among the Who’s Who in entertainment, business and politics. Companies also invite their colleagues and sometimes no expense is considered. When you observe these guests in their traditional Bavarian dress it is like an old world haute couture fashion show. Every person regardless of size, age, skin color looks absolutely stunning in the “Dirdnls, bunt Hosen, Jacken, Socken und Schuhen”. The combination of hues include an entire palette with finely stitched embroidery and knitted wear. Käfer's menu also offers more with a variety of desserts and wooden boards adorned with greens, cheeses, cold cuts, tomatoes, radishes as well as an array of complete hot meals in the Bavarian flavors.
One fall I worked for the restaurant so I know first hand the mountains of food prepared and served. The waiter and waitresses worked harder than anyone can imagine, traveling distances to earn thousands of Euros in these 2 weeks. Unfortunately some are unable to last the duration due to sprained wrists and feet, as well as insulting remarks from attendees who sometimes choose not to pay nor tip for their dining pleasure. So, be patient, generous and smile while you enjoy this time.
Tips for A Magical Journey
1) Your Intention: Set an intention of what your Heart’s Desires are during this time and release any attachment to the outcome; let the Universe guide you and bring you gifts and watch the Magic happen.
2) Your Divine Entourage: Call up Archangel St. Michael to protect you; Archangel St. Raphael to have a magical journey, staying healthy and the prosperity to really have a good time.
3) Protect your Documents: Keep a copy of your passport, credit cards & insurance cards, names of your hotels and destinations at home for a trusted person to easily access them. Keep you passport, credit cards,& insurance cards in the hotel safe not on your person when you are sightseeing and especially at the Oktoberfest.
4) Travel Light: On a plane, train or bus wear leggings and a T shirt with options of layering. Wear primarily natural fibers: cotton, wool, rayon (Viskose in Europe), bamboo, cashmere & silk. Bring comfortable walking shoes and rain gear. Europeans dress up for special occasions.
5) Keep Hydrated: Drink plenty of water on a flight along with herbal teas and juices. These will minimize jet lag. Consider 3-4 real essential oils and make a spray with clean water: Sage to cleanse the energy of your auto rental & hotel rooms. Rose & Geranium for Love and forgiveness. Citrus scent for uplifting and rejuvenation. Look into a local spa treatment at a 4 or 5 star hotel. Rescue Remedy is good for minimizing stress as well as Lavender (non-spiked flower).
6) Medical Support: “Apotheke: is a pharmacy selling both prescription medications as well as healing herbs for various discomforts. If you look up the Latin names then the pharmacist will understand you. “Das Reformhaus” stores are everywhere in Germany and focus on selling vegetarian but not always organic products. However they are free from synthetic additives including food, skin care and make-up. There is this amazing water by “St. Leonhard’s Quelle” which even obtains this Divine elixir deep within the wells at 45 feet into Mother Gaia on the full moon.
7) Speak the Language: Learn basic phrases in the native languages: Hello, How are you?, Thank You and You are welcome. Upon entering a home and a business say hello. In Bavaria this greeting is different : “Gruess Gott” Greet GOD pronounced “Greuss as in feud; "Gawtt" as in awesome. Consider the DK Eyewitness German language book and the DK Eyewitness travel book on Germany. These travel companions are beautifully picturesque and with a wealth of information on banking, medical visits, postal service and a language glossary.
8) Private Time: Meditate and set your intention for the day or take walks in the early morning.
9) Delicious Lunches: Buy lunch at one of the markets or local delis. Germany has some of the healthiest dark bread since it is made from natural sour starter yeasts.
10) Splurge: Save money for a really nice dinner at an expensive restaurant, even if it is just once.
The most important Wisdom which I can offer is to trust your Intuition, that nudging from your Heart Palace to guide you throughout your journey. It is more powerful than any book or person. If you are in the company of someone and you begin to feel uneasy, even if they are befriending your travel companion who may be a relative or best friend, Trust this. Leave if you must and ask Archangel St Michael to protect you and your loved ones and intervene in a way that is for the Highest and Greatest Good of All! Remember that everyone has free will choice. Honor your own self first.
Cities which are close to Munich for a short jaunt are Bad Tolz, Starnberg, Germany as well as Kufstein & Salzburg, Austria.
You are welcome to share this information but in its entirety giving full credit to myself as the author.
Wishing Everyone Who Reads this A Very Magical and JOYful Life Copyright 2017 Berta Maria Hines, M.D.
National Opera House in Munich, Germany ( photo by Chris Helmkamp)
